How I Saw Paris This Week (Part Nine)

Ha! – I didn’t forget to post this Wednesday. Take that, blogging gods!

Ten more photos for what is currently a drizzly day in the capital. Maybe it’s fitting there are a few shots of the covered passages – perfect for days like these.

Thanks to all of you who comment, like, share, and generally send your good vibes my way. It’s like nourishment for my shutter finger. :-) Hope you enjoy’s today’s set.

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When you think of Art Nouveau in Paris it’s usually Guimard who gets all the attention. But there was another master of the art form called Lavirotte. One of his creations at 29 Avenue Rapp (7th arr) is a sight to behold! Built in 1900, it was soon the talk of the town and would go on to win the contest for Best Facade in Paris. Think of that – there were once so many artistic buildings sprouting up they held contests for them! Take me back there…
A bit of repetition can make for an interesting photo; I guess that’s why I can never resist the Vélib stations. It makes me a bit sad when people get intimidated by biking in Paris. It’s such a romantic way to see the city. In fact Paris seems made for life on two wheels.
Roasted chicken! An fine example of the French doing something simple with food but doing it oh-so-well. This was along Rue Saint-Antoine, which if you’re ever in Le Marais is a very nice foodie lane. Chickens, cheese, wine, bakeries, honey, chocolate, and you get the idea.
The Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st arr) isn’t just shops and mahogany charm. It houses one of my favorite lunch spots, too. Its name may be unoriginal – Restaurant Véro Dodat – but it’s got a lot going for it. It’s run by what seems to be a long-married couple and the food has a maternal “made just for you” quality. You can eat in the passage itself and revel in 19th century vibes, or go upstairs for a cozy room with Paris murals painted on the walls. 
This is the same restaurant as above. You can see it’s good AND affordable! I loved this shot for the reflection on the left. This covered passage has old mirrors underneath each lamp fixture, a throwback to when gas lighting was the norm and it needed to be reflected for effective illumination.
Speaking of passages this is Galerie Vivienne (2nd arr), a spot known for its inspiring mosaics. They were done in the mid 19th century by the finest mosaist in Europe, a Venetian named Facchina. He was no slouch and in addition to these floors did some in the Petit Palais, Opéra Garnier, Bon Marché and elsewhere. Every Paris fan needs to see this corridor. And it makes me wonder – would any architect splurge on this kind of floor in the 21st century? It’d probably be shot down in the second budget meeting.
Sometimes the most interesting Parisians are dead Parisians, at least the ones lying in Père Lachaise (20th arr). It was once said that if all the cemetery’s spirits awoke one night and had a cocktail party, it’d be the event of the century. Oscar Wilde and Chopin would be reason enough for me to cancel my plans and join in, but there are many more brilliant characters to be found and contemplated in this burial ground. If I may shamelessly plug myself, you should all take my tour of Père Lachaise and explore it with me. :-)
Place Saint-Sulpice (6th arr) is a gorgeous, gorgeous place in my world. It’s never crowded, the fountain is stunning, and the church of the same name reminds us of the neo-classical grandure of olden times. As long as I’m advertising my tours, you’ll all want to join me for one of Saint-Germain-des-Prés as well, where I’ll show you the coolest secrets this area has to offer. In case you haven’t gotten it yet – I really want to show you Paris!
Sorry if the dead animal offends anyone, but I had to share this ultra cozy (and decidedly macho) address called Cerwood Coffee. It’s straight out of an LL Bean catalog and transports you to a hunting lodge in the mountains. I didn’t have a chance to try the coffee but it’s now on my list. You’ll find it on Rue Lassus in the 19th arrondissement. If you go, be sure to also cross the street and go inside Eglise Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Belleville. 
I’m in love with classical instruments. I can’t play too many of them, but they’re such a symbol of artisty and sophistication. They seem almost alien to our modern world, like they should have died out with horse drawn carriages. I’m glad they didn’t. The specialization of Parisian artisans – whether it’s cellos, lemon tarts, or parasols – is what makes this culture so damn alluring. That’s why we all need to remind each other to pay attention to the attention THEY’RE paying, if you know what I mean.


Thanks again for stopping by and following along! I’ll do my best to collect more fun details for next week’s installment. If you missed last week’s you can find it here.

Happy Paris dreaming and à bientot!

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22 comments

  • My god. What a stunning set of images, Corey! Your commentary is wonderful too — your love for Paris and “insider” knowledge really shines through once again. If you keep this up, Wednesdays will soon become my favorite day of the week!

    • Thanks Heide! At first I didn’t expect this series to include tips and recommendations, but it actually lends itself well to that. I always love when you stop by and I hope you’re feeling better!

      • Isn’t it funny how posts evolve on their own sometimes? :) And thank you for the kind words, Corey. I’m mending more slowly than I’d like, but any progress is welcome. Cheers to you!

    • Hi Patricia thanks for your comment. I guess I should have mentioned that in the caption! It was a storefront on Rue de la Villette, close to the Buttes Chaumont park.

  • I am bound and determined to return………………….. Loved your tour, your knowledge, your insight, your gift of sharing, your patience ……. and David and I really enjoy your weekly blog!!! Don’t ever stop. Karen & David Fort Lauderdale

  • Corey; you are now officially my best appreciated Paris photographer and commentator :)
    Your eye is fearless, your art highly developped, your words speak to us the readers, there is nothing I couldn’t like.
    Some observations & opinions from me:
    29 Ave Rapp – I thought for a moment you had got your cities mixed up…. I have seen this kind of stunning art nouveau in Portugal, Spain and Scotland (Mackintosh, Glasgow, Edinburgh)…. a total MUST SEE – it made me also think of the Rossio railway station in Lisbon!
    Vélib: Not for a million would I use a bicycle in Paris….. I also do NOT drive in Paris, and I am generally not a fearful person. We have to drive by car to Paris 2-4x per month and if Hero Husband isn’t at hand, it’s the RER & métro. I live in a mix of fear and admiration for those who ‘dare’
    Galerie Vivienne: Would you believe it, but we have an entrée and a toilet & bathroom with this kind of mosaics…. The architect of our 1920 home got his inspiration at the Hôtel Excelsior in Nancy – he copied their floors and we have now a very ‘used’ but still incredibly beautiful Art Nouveau entree. Sadly, there was such a heavy and undelible coat of dirt, broken and damaged mosaic stones that we haven’t been able to clean it all but hey, it’s a living quarter and not a museum…. Every time I visit Vivienne Gallery, I feel like skipping over those glorious pattern, I must have taken some zillions photos and I never tire of coming back.
    Grill chicken: We had a very late lunch of Loué organic chicken thighs – luckily because your pic would have given me real hunger pangs….
    Lachaise – YEP to all of it! Sadly for you, we took twice a walking tour already, both times with invaluable advice, stories and great infos…. So worth it!
    Place St Sulpice – I am glad you said what we also commented on when we visited some time ago: How can such a huge and beautiful place be so ’empty’…. I don’t understand it but then we don’t have to! :) AND the church….!!!!
    As a cello (and violin) player I share your enthusiasm for the Atélier Luthier – When I was often in Bern Switzerland, I talked for hours to one of the best known instrument builders and he gave me much helpful advice (but he didn’t want to buy my violin…. lol). These places are MAGIC but I know from several of my ‘connaissances’ that it is a métier those artisans struggle to keep afloat – Chinese instruments of pretty good quality swarm the world and you can’t honestly blame a buyer for wanting to give his child or himself an affordable instrument. But it is a rather sad story. This shot of yours is full of nostalgic love and pride, and the dust & muguet add just the little touch of what I like.
    Another great post and commented with all my heart-blood, as well as excuses to having taken over your blog….

    • Wow what an amazing comment! I enjoyed reading it. I love to see that kind of passion for Paris, art, music etc. Can’t believe you have 1920s style mosaics obi your home! Amazing. Thanks for reading!

  • Corey, Each post makes me more excited to do our tour with you soon. I think your “eye” for detail, and seeing what others so often overlook iis fantastic

  • Greetings from Melbourne, Australia. I love looking at your photos – please do keep posting them. Planning a month in Paris next April. Will definitely look up your tours then. Cheers, Bec

    • Thanks for joining the travels Ann Marie! I love finding other Paris lovers around the world. That’s the funnest part of blogging. Stay tuned for plenty more photos as I continue this weekly series. Take care.

  • Thank you for your commentary and superb photographs. It makes a delightful start to Sunday mornings when I rendezvous with some of my favourite posts.

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